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Four videos today, this weekend I’m going to shoot some more.

Pressing and prep for the sleeve seam allowances

 

Pressing the seam allowance with a seam roll when the sleeve is too narrow for the board.

Sewing in the lining at the top of the sleeve.

Hand sewing the bottom of the sleeve shut.

 

 

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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Marking the eyelets out for spiral lacing

Cutting out the sleeves (the wool is from my stash and the wrinkles would not steam out)

First pass of sewing the sleeves together.

 

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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Sewing in the lining around the top edge

Clipping into corners and trimming

Edge stitching the seam allowance to the lining along the top

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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Pleating the skirt down with knife pleats and a box pleat in the back

 

Basting the pleats in place

Ironing the pleats down to keep things from moving around when I sew the skirt to the bodice

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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Some work in progress shots of a 16th century black linen doublet.

Doublet front basted and shaped.

Doublet front basted and shaped.

 

Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool

 

Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool.

Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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I’m in need of a new underskirt or petticoat for my 16th century clothing. I’ve been using the same cotton broadcloth one I made back in 2005, for years now. It is serviceable, but it adds a lot of bulk at the waist and it isn’t very authentic in construction or materials.

So it is time to for a new one.

I have 3.5 yards of a lovely wine colored, lightweight worsted wool donated to me by Noel. (Thank you Noel! <3 )

I’ll be drafting the pattern on the fabric and  hand sewing the whole thing with linen thread.

 

wine red wool and thread

 

I’m working from the Spanish version of Alcega’s Book. The english translation is out-of-print and painfully expensive. I’m not a native nor fluent spanish speaker so google and a few other resources will be heavily used.

I’m using the translated chart of symbols from the tailors book into modern inches from the Curious Frau’s site.

Taking some inspiration from Other Andrew’s The Alcega Project.

And keeping in mind the information  of the Modern Maker has posted about his study of the patterns on his blog and on the Elizabethan Costume Facebook group.

 


 

Definition from “Nuevo diccionario portatil, espanol e ingles: compuesto segun los mejore…

Manteo: s, m : a church man’s cloke; a woman’s under petticoat.

Language is a fluid thing, always changing. The above definition is from 1728 far later than the 16th century. However even later dictionaries simply list it as a cloak or mantle. Context is key, when it is listed as Manteo de Muger, chances are it is a skirt.

Read the rest of this entry »

Originally published at Centuries Sewing: Historical Costumes and Clothing. You can comment here or there.

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