Back in March I posted a mock-up of the gabled hood for my mockado gown (entry found here
) I then ripped the mock-up apart and cut it down in places to get a better shape but at the same time was not happy with my materials. I had gotten a very heavy interfacing that really was too heavy. So the project stalled and while the gown is done the headware lingers on.*
The white floaty veils in the Holbein drawing do look very Netherlands-ish but before totally discounting them I wanted to get a solid grounding in what an English hood was, what was it called in period, what were all the bits called?
I like having a foundation to build on, which is something I try to do with all my projects before I go off on random flights of fancy.
So I hit the inventory lists, the most interesting entry being this description from 1513:
Nicolo Di Favri, of Treviso (attached to the Venetian Embassy in London), to Francesco Gradenigo, son-in-law of Andrea Badoer.
In England the women go to market for household provisions; if gentlewomen, they are preceded by two men servants. Their usual vesture is a cloth petticoat over the shift, lined with grey squirrel's or some other fur; over the petticoat they wear a long gown lined with some choice fur. The gentlewomen carry the train of their gown under the arm; the commonalty pin it behind or before, or at one side. The sleeves of the gowns sit as close as possible; are long, and unslashed throughout, the cuffs being lined with some choice fur. Their head gear is of various sorts of velvet, cap fashion, with lappets (coste) hanging down behind over their shoulders like two hoods; and in front they have two others, lined with some other silk. Their hair is not seen, so is unable to say whether it be light or dark. Others wear on their heads muslins, which are distended, and hang at their backs, but not far down. Some draw their hair from under a kerchief, and wear over the hair a cap, for the most part white, round, and seemly; others again wear a kerchief in folds on the head: but be the fashion as it may, the hair is never seen.
Their stockings are black and their shoes doubly soled, of various colours, but no one wears “choppines,” as they are not in use in England. When they meet friends in the street, they shake hands, and kiss on the mouth, and go to some tavern to regale, their relatives not taking this amiss, as such is the custom. The women are very beautiful and good tempered.
'Venice: February 1513', Calendar of State Papers Relating to English Affairs in the Archives of Venice, Volume 2: 1509-1519 (1867), pp. 88-94. URL: http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=94183&strquery=lappets
Date accessed: 16 March 2011.
So there is a description of what might be gabled hood and maybe three different types of linen based head coverings.( But what were gabled hoods called in period? This gets long. )