Costumes!

Aug. 7th, 2011 03:04 am
centuriessewing: (lush gown)
I have lots to babble about on these, but it is almost 3am here so I'm gonna post the pretty pretty pictures and Sleeeeeep.





Pink silk kirtle




Grey "Mockado" or low nap velveteen gown based on the Holbein drawing



Lots of photos under the cut, but optimized for the web )
centuriessewing: (Default)
[livejournal.com profile] sstormwatch I have a reply to your comment percolating in my brain, it will take me a bit to get it all in order, but I agree on all the points you raised.


More food for thought"


A rough time line of gabled hoods (dated from what is posted on flickr, and one or two of my own guess):


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/5339205277/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1490
lappet and rounded cap


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/5356345677/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1499
Lappet and veil might be one piece, box in the back.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/vitrearum/368790072/in/set-72157594233806957 1500
Crude etching, front lappet bit, and very long hood behind? not enough detail


http://www.flickr.com/photos/amthomson/2946559711/ 1503
Medley, plain long lappets and box back, long veil


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/1159283152/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1503
John son of William Reade (Reed) and wife Margaret long lappets and long back veil bits, just a bit of an underlayer peeking out


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/1159283120/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1503
Daughters of John and Margaret Reade 3 hoods , 1 with no back veil, 2 (?) with veil, 2 bare heads


http://www.flickr.com/photos/vitrearum/296281927/in/set-72157594233806957 1513
Front view, no frontlet, or braids plain lappet


http://www.flickr.com/photos/16162181@N05/5464862205/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1514
Long lappets, veil and some type of box or other bit over the veil almost to her shoulder


http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/page34.html 1522
Long hood that comes down to her elbows?
Looks a great deal like the Holbein sketch in terms of dress and the skirt pulled up



http://www.flickr.com/photos/vitrearum/263243288/in/set-72157594233806957 1524
Long hood, box back, again veil might be lined with something lighter



http://www.flickr.com/photos/norfolkodyssey/3530161085/ 1525 (?)

Copy of the Flemish designed Pounder brass (?)

"M" shaped lappet, peaked back with long veil over all of the head, the back, coming down past the shoulders


http://www.flickr.com/photos/norfolkodyssey/3530975472/in/photostream/
Pounder children the under structure to the adult headdress?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/norfolkodyssey/3530168765/
More Pounder children



http://www.flickr.com/photos/calotype46/4369947108 1527
Lappets are a bit shorter, long veil in the back


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/941715674/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1530
Jane Eveas short lappets, not yet folded up, small box like shape in the back


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219527@N00/1158733827/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1531
Shorter fancy lappets, veil seems to be fancy fabric


http://www.flickr.com/photos/philip_talmage/2516794542/ 1541
Thomas Warde and Jane (joan?), hard to see, she has some huge veil that takes up lots of space going on in the back



http://www.flickr.com/photos/16162181@N05/5178790178/in/pool-65944872@N00/ 1549 (?)
Lady Marney, shorter lappets hair in braids or behind striped cloth hard to tell.

______________________________


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordtommy/3420963401/ Not dated
Front lappets loose hair down the back, 5 young girls


http://www.flickr.com/photos/41621108@N00/4117777733/ Not dated
Mid shoulder lappets and veil box shaped back on two main figures


http://www.flickr.com/photos/16162181@N05/5451952094/in/pool-65944872@N00/ Not dated
Lappet folded back on itself at the crown of the head, veil lined with what seems to imply a lighter color, long black box


http://www.flickr.com/photos/29320962@N07/3656467695/ Not dated
Plain lappets long veil, might be lined in something lighter. peaked front but no bound hair? Interesting cross over front of the gown.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/12608538@N03/4425624214/ Not dated, might be too early
Plain cloth head coverings?
centuriessewing: (Default)
Back in March I posted a mock-up of the gabled hood for my mockado gown (entry found here) I then ripped the mock-up apart and cut it down in places to get a better shape but at the same time was not happy with my materials. I had gotten a very heavy interfacing that really was too heavy. So the project stalled and while the gown is done the headware lingers on.*


The white floaty veils in the Holbein drawing do look very Netherlands-ish but before totally discounting them I wanted to get a solid grounding in what an English hood was, what was it called in period, what were all the bits called?

I like having a foundation to build on, which is something I try to do with all my projects before I go off on random flights of fancy.

So I hit the inventory lists, the most interesting entry being this description from 1513:

Nicolo Di Favri, of Treviso (attached to the Venetian Embassy in London), to Francesco Gradenigo, son-in-law of Andrea Badoer.

In England the women go to market for household provisions; if gentlewomen, they are preceded by two men servants. Their usual vesture is a cloth petticoat over the shift, lined with grey squirrel's or some other fur; over the petticoat they wear a long gown lined with some choice fur. The gentlewomen carry the train of their gown under the arm; the commonalty pin it behind or before, or at one side. The sleeves of the gowns sit as close as possible; are long, and unslashed throughout, the cuffs being lined with some choice fur. Their head gear is of various sorts of velvet, cap fashion, with lappets (coste) hanging down behind over their shoulders like two hoods; and in front they have two others, lined with some other silk. Their hair is not seen, so is unable to say whether it be light or dark. Others wear on their heads muslins, which are distended, and hang at their backs, but not far down. Some draw their hair from under a kerchief, and wear over the hair a cap, for the most part white, round, and seemly; others again wear a kerchief in folds on the head: but be the fashion as it may, the hair is never seen. Their stockings are black and their shoes doubly soled, of various colours, but no one wears “choppines,” as they are not in use in England. When they meet friends in the street, they shake hands, and kiss on the mouth, and go to some tavern to regale, their relatives not taking this amiss, as such is the custom. The women are very beautiful and good tempered.

'Venice: February 1513', Calendar of State Papers Relating to English Affairs in the Archives of Venice, Volume 2: 1509-1519 (1867), pp. 88-94. URL: http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=94183&strquery=lappets Date accessed: 16 March 2011.

So there is a description of what might be gabled hood and maybe three different types of linen based head coverings.


But what were gabled hoods called in period? This gets long. )

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